|
|
|
 |
|
| |
| YOUR FIRST BIKE |
| |
|
Ready to buy your first bike? Here are
a few points, which you may like to consider - also check out the
"Tips" page.
In deciding to buy a new bike you
must first consider the type of riding that you want to do, as this
will determine the type of bike that you need.
There are basically four categories
of bikes: Road bikes, Mountain bikes, and Commuting bikes.
Lets have a look at the type of bike there are and how they will
suit your riding needs.
|
|
|
| Mountain Bikes |
|
Mountain bikes have wider and smaller wheels (26") (compared
to Road bike) and are mostly designed for off-road use. They use
Front suspension, which gives shock relief on rough tracks. The
smaller wheels and smaller frames allow you to stand over the frame,
plant your foot, and slide the bike around a tough corner. If you
are chasing the thrill of downhilling, you will probably be looking
for a dual-suspension bike, which has both front and rear shock
absorbers.
|
|
|
| Road Bikes |
|
Road bikes (racers) are built for speed;
with light, rigid frames, thin, smooth tyres with narrow, streamlined
700cc (used to be 27") wheels, drop style handlebars for more
control and streamlining, narrow seats, high top tubes.
|
|
|
| Communting Bikes |
|
This style of bike offers the best of both
mountain and road biking worlds. With bigger wheels and gear ratios
than mountain bikes - for getting along roads and bike paths more
quickly for less effort - and thicker tyres, the commuting bike
offers easier to use gears with a more comfortable upright riding
position - than a road bike.
|
|
|
| Fit |
|
It is important that you purchase the correct
sized bike. Knee, back and neck pain as well as decreased performance,
can result from poor fit. Therefore we recommend that you let our
experts fit you for the correct sized bike.
Mountain bikes can generally be a bit smaller to allow for more
manoeuvrability.
Road bikes require a very specific fit in the frame, handlebar width,
seat height, seat position and stem length.
It is best if you wear your riding
gear and bring your shoes and pedals (if you already have some you
wish to use) and allow a bit more time for your final fit. Although
sometimes customers insist, we would rather see you walk out of
the shop, than ride out on an ill-fitting bike.
|
|
|
| OTHER EQUIPMENT |
| Componentry |
|
Componentry (this refers to the parts on
a bike such as the cranks, chainrings, chain, sprockets, hubs, bottom
bracket, brakes and gear levers.) The quality (and price) increases
through classifications from entry level to elite. Going up in levels
will give increased performance, (for example the levers will change
gears more fluently and easily) generally with lighter weight and
more strength.
When buying a bike and once a frame
is selected, experienced buyers will get the highest level of componentry
their budget will allow.
|
|
|
| Quick Release Wheels |
|
Quick release wheels remove from the frame
without the need for a spanner or any other equipment. Small levers
at the hubs allow the wheel to be fixed to the bike with the tightening
of a lever. These are handy for throwing the bike in the boot or
back seat of your car and also allow easy tyre changing and puncture
repair. Get the sales or mechanical staff to show you how to operate
the quick release levers properly and how tight to make them. Mountain
bikes with "V" brakes require the brakes to be released
for the tyre to come out. Please make sure that the levers are always
done up properly and tightly enough, as I know of two different
fractured collar bones due to this detail being overlooked.
|
|
|
| Helmet |
It is required by law that a
cyclist wears a helmet whenever riding. This is for obvious reasons,
to protect your brain from injury if you are ever involved in an accident.
Contrary to the belief of some (apparently) cool, (usually) teenage,
(generally) males, bicycle handlebars DO NOT have brains and therefore
have NO NEED for helmets, especially when their riders do!
The bicycle store staff has a standing joke about the customer with
the $200 Nike shoes that comes in and asks for the cheapest helmet
in the shop - this implies that his brains may be in his big toe!
Although the best helmet in the world cannot guarantee that you avoid
head injury in an accident, but perhaps a good gauge to your price
range should match the most expensive pair of shoes in your wardrobe. |
|
|
| Spares Kit |
|
If you intend riding regularly and any
distance further than a walk from home, we strongly recommend you
purchase with your bike at least a spare tube, a patch kit, tyre
levers and a pump. A spares bag will hold all of these items out
of the way under your seat.
|
|
|
| Water Bottle |
|
A water bottle cage and water bottle are requirements
in our climate (you can dehydrate quite quickly riding and not notice
it, as the wind dries the perspiration).
|
|
|
| Light |
|
If you intend to do any riding at night then you will need a bike
light. These not only allow you to see where you are going but also
shows motorists where you are.
|
|
|
| Lock |
|
A good lock is a necessity if you want to protect your bike from
theft. If you are leaving your bike unattended, anywhere, then lock
it up.
|
|
|
| CLOTHING |
| Nicks |
| A good pair of nicks or bike
shorts are pretty much a minimum requirement if you intend riding
for more than 45 minutes at a time. These are the tight elastic pants
with the padding in the crotch - called a chamois (some still are
made of chamois leather, but most are now synthetic). There is no
need to wear any undies with them as the idea is for the chamois to
let the area "breathe" and also to have no rough seams on
the saddle area. (Please wear underwear when trying on in the shop
and after purchase, always wash them between rides). |
|
|
| Gloves |
| Probably the next most important
comfort (and safety) item is a pair of riding gloves, they will make
the experience more comfortable, reduce sun damage, reduce callous
formation and protect you in the unfortunate incident of a get-off.
(Falling off and removing all the skin from the palms of your hands)
|
|
|
| Jerseys |
Jerseys (riding shirts) are
usually brightly coloured, which increases your visibility to traffic
and other riders, has pockets in the back, which can carry a lot more
than you would imagine (jam sandwich, power bars, banana and raincoat
for example).
A properly fitting jersey will remove sweat from your skin and decreasing
your wind resistance, thus greatly increasing your riding comfort.
|
|
|
| Shoes and Pedels |
Depending upon how serious
you are or intend to be, you may wish to purchase a pair of cycling
shoes and clipless pedals. The shoes have things called "cleats"
on the bottom of the ball of the foot which clip into the pedal mechanism
and unclip with the twist of the foot on the pedal platform. The system
allows the rider to both push down on the pedals and pull up on them
- especially useful for climbing hills.
All racing cyclists and serious touring riders wear them - once converted
you will wonder how you ever managed (I did!). They take a small amount
of getting used to, but can definitely be safer and easier than toe
straps over a pedal; for one, you don't have to touch them with your
hand. (See the section on shoes for more information.) |
|
|
| Riding |
|
Start out small, and flat! If your first
ride is so tiring you are sore for a week, you are not very likely
to rush out for another. The brakes on bikes these days generally
work a lot better than they used to, so you will need to accustom
yourself with how hard to press on them. You generally have more
control using the front brake of a bicycle, as that is where most
of the weight goes when you slow or stop. As for gears, the chain
likes to be straight. If you have 2 or 3 chainrings on the front,
there will be overlap between them for example, the second biggest
ring on the back and the biggest ring on the front will provide
approximately the same gear ratio as the smaller ring on the front
and somewhere near the middle of the rear "stack", the
chain will be straighter with less strain and less wear.
Pedalling should be smooth, relaxed
and fluent. If you are wearing shoes, which attach to your pedals,
you should try to remember to pull through at the bottom of the
pedal stroke - think "circles". A good rule is to be in
the gear which has your legs going the fastest while still being
comfortable - riding in too big a gear all of the time (ie. with
your legs going slowly and pushing hard) can lead to back, hip and
knee problems as well as the fact that you will be less able to
keep up with those who can pedal properly.
Make sure you obey the road-rules
and above all have fun!
|
|
|
| Bonking |
No, not what you think! Also
termed as "going flat", the correct term is hypoglycaemia.
It is very easy for the body to just run out of energy on a long ride
- most cyclists who have trained over about 300km a week would have
experienced it at some stage. It's unlikely to happen on a less than
about 40 or 50 km ride (or in less than about 90 minutes), but that
depends upon your fitness.
Basically, you just run out of power and end up creeping home unless
you can have something to eat. The moral of the story is to always
have enough to eat before a ride and take enough fuel with you or
resources (ie. money) get some on the way! Unlike running, you can
have quite a full tummy before going on a ride. |
|
 |
